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Small Laundry Room Ideas

We're going to share with you our small laundry room ideas that are fun and easy to do!


A lot of times, our laundry rooms can be overlooked when it comes to decorating. However, they can be just as fun to bring to life, even if you don't have a ton of space to work with.  

There can be a few challenges to overcome when putting together small laundry room ideas, but that doesn't mean it's not possible.  

We want to share with you our own experience with our laundry room makeover, which was surprisingly inexpensive and easy to do!

First we're going to share with you two different small laundry room ideas that we came up with.  The first makeover was focused around our original washer and dryer set.  

These were the front load style.  We ended up having to replace them, and decided to upgrade while going back to the traditional top load washer.  

The experience taught us a lot, and we really enjoyed watching both transformations come together.  It was amazing to watch these simple ideas completely change the look of the room!  

​Let's start with our first laundry room makeover.  Again, this one was done with our original washer and dryer set.  Since our laundry room is the first room you see when entering through the back door, we wanted it to make a good first impression.  We focused our ideas around the washer and dryer set.  

Shown below are the original wood cabinets, which we knew we wanted to paint regardless of anything else.  But we wanted to do something fun and unique with them, and incorporate the color of our washer and dryer into the project as well.  

In order to do this, we decided to paint the cabinets red.  To incorporate this bold color without overdoing it, we chose to paint the cabinet doors the same color we used for the walls of our laundry room.  And we upgraded the hardware to something with a more modern look, using a brushed nickel finish.  

On to the stand...

Next we focused on building a stand for our washer and dryer to sit on.  This would be an easy way to add extra detail to an otherwise plain room, and would also make it easier to use the washer and dryer.  

The pedestals they sell for these sets can get expensive, so we got creative and came up with our own pedestal idea.  And this way, we could better achieve the look we wanted, also giving us more options while keeping with a more creative and unique look.

Listed here are the materials we used to build the platform.  I've also included links to some of the items that you can click on for you to refer to so you will know exactly what you'll need for this project.  These will also come in handy for any of your small laundry room ideas. 

  • 3/4" 4 x 4 plywood sheet
  • 6 - 2 x 6 joists
  • 2 x 10 ledger
  • 11" prefinished laminated shelf, cut to length
  • 3" heavy duty exterior screws for the framing
  • 2 & 3/8" heavy duty exterior screws for attaching the floor to the joists
  • Latex caulk
  • Standard quarter round shoe molding (doesn't have to be flexible, this is just an example)
  • 4" wall trim, white
  • 2" trim nails
  • 2 x 2 ledger strip
  • 4" piece of semi-rigid vent

Now I'm going to list the tools needed for this project.  Again, I'm including links for you to click on for referencing each tool.  The miter saw is more of an optional tool, but it does make trim work much easier. 

Pro tip - Clamps can help when you find yourself short on hands!

​Once you have all the materials and tools you need, you're ready to begin.  Start by measuring the area that you'll be building the platform in.  You want to be as precise as possible, so that everything comes together seamlessly.  

Measure how far you want the platform to come out from the wall, as well as the width of the space the platform will need to fit into.  Try to visualize the area that you will be remodeling.   This is to avoid any potential problems or issues that may arise after completion. Fixing a mistake before it has the chance to become one is obviously much easier than after. 

Will that shelf you want to install give the washer enough clearance to open?  Did you allow enough space to fit the machines as well as the space they will require behind for wire and vent management?  Questions like these can save a ton of time and money.  Don't ask how I know.....

Once you are satisfied with your plan, we need to start building a rough frame.  The first piece will be the 2 x 10 ledger.  Measure in between the walls and cut a piece of 2 x 10 to fit. Exact is nice, but being 1/8" short (in this application) may save some headaches.

Once you have the starter piece we can go from there.  Next we will set this in place for a moment.   Take notice of any obstructions or things that we need to be aware of before we lay out the joist locations.  In our particular application, the dryer vent was literally a hole in the floor with the exhaust vent routed up to it.  

In order to connect after the platform was installed we would need to extend it, which meant that I had to make sure not to put a joist in the way.  We marked the areas to avoid, and laid the rest of the joists out 16" on center.  

The fun is just beginning...

I wanted to be able to screw the joists to the ledger board and then screw the ledger to the wall, so I made sure at this point that the joist layouts were not where the wall studs were, and also marked the locations of the wall studs and pre-drilled the screw holes.  

This way I could screw into the wall studs without wrestling with the drill in a spot that wasn't adequate, or have to put the screws in on an angle to hit the studs.

With the joist locations marked we were almost ready to cut some joists.  But first I made a matching ledger for the front and transferred my marks for the joists to the inside of that board.  

We measured the depth out that we wanted and subtracted 3" from that ​number to allow for the ledger boards on each end.  So if you want an area 48" x 48" then the ledgers will be 48" and the joists will be 45".

Next I took a piece of scrap 2 x 6 to use as a gauge block.  I sat the 2 x 10 ledger flat and placed the gauge block on the joist marks and marked the bottom of each joist.  This will tell us where the support ledger will be screwed into the main ledger.  

With that marked, cut a piece of 2 x 2 to the same length as the main 2 x 10 ledger, and screw it in place.  The top of this board should line up with the bottom of the joists, which we marked in the previous step, as they will sit directly on this support.  

Then I duplicated this process on the front main ledger board.  Make sure the support ledger and joist layout marks are on the inside of the front main ledger.  This is the side that the joists will butt into.

Once all the frame pieces were cut, I sat them in place so that I could mock it up before I did the final installation.  Just to check once more to ensure that everything looked good. Once satisfied, I screwed the main ledger to the back wall and set the front ledger in place.  

Securing  the joists - 

Next I screwed the front ledger into the 2 end joists.  This kept all 4 sides in place securely, but still allowed me to move the front end of the middle joists a bit.  This accomplishes a couple of things.  

Since I wanted to secure the 2 end joists to their respective wall studs, I needed to make sure they were both in the right spot.  Having the middle joists' ends free it gave me a little more room to make sure I had enough space to get my drill in there to secure them.

With the front ledger and end joists secured I moved the middle joists to their final locations.  I then screwed them each in place, again using 3 screws per joist.

With the frame completed I was ready for some floor plywood.  I chose a semi-finished piece of 3/4 stock that wouldn't require a ton of sanding to look good when painted.  I measured the size and cut it 1/4" less than each measurement.  This allowed me 1/8" of play on each side.  

Sometimes the wall may not be perfectly straight, or the area may not be completely square.  Cutting the floor plywood just a little short will help alleviate some stress in a situation like that.  

We are going to put down some trim anyway, and will never see the spots that are 1/8" short.  I did make sure that the front was perfectly flush because the trim was going to butt tight to this, and I didn't want a gap there.

Once the plywood is cut, set it in place and mark any final adjustments.  In my case, this meant measuring for the vent extension and cutting it out.  When you are happy with the fit and adjustments, screw it down with 2 3/8" screws spaced about 8" apart around the edges and down each joist.  

If you are certain that this area will stay there for good, you can use some construction adhesive.  I decided not to because I wasn't sure of this, and the adhesive would have increased the difficulty of removing the whole thing exponentially.

With the floor in place the next thing we did was sand it to a 150 grit finish and paint it, as it's easier to do this without the trim in place.  Cutting in became less of a hassle and we could touch up any spots later.

TRIM -

Next up was trim.  We measured and cut the floor trim,  mocked it up to ensure a nice tight fit, adjusted any cuts that may have needed it and shot it in place with the 16g trim gun.​  

After the floor trim we finished the front of the exposed wood with the laminated shelf.  The finish on this is especially susceptible to chipping, so a dedicated trim blade would work well for this one cut.  

If you don't want to invest in a trim blade for one cut, you can either score the cut first with a utility knife, or just take your time and make a careful cut.  This cut will rarely be perfect, I was able to get it pretty close though.  I did my best and caulked the rest.....

With the front trim piece in place, the last part of wood construction is the shoe molding. This was basically the same process as the floor trim.  We measured, cut, mocked up and shot in place when we were satisfied with the fit.

We are almost done.  I can already imagine the crisp linen smell....

Painting - 

On to paint prep.  To get a great paint finish the prep is what needs to be great.  To make this happen we caulked and wiped all seams, nail and screw holes once, let it dry and gave it one final caulk job and then let it dry.

After that we found some colors that we liked, slapped 2 coats on and moved the machines in place and hooked them up.

Voila!  We had an awesome looking and functional laundry platform that really grabbed some good attention when anyone entered through the rear entrance.  And,  even though the instructions are a bit involved, don't be intimidated!  It was really quite easy.  If we can do it so can you!

small laundry room ideas

​Looking for more information to help with your project?  Check out THE BEST WAY TO PAINT A ROOM.  It'll take you step by step through the painting process, with helpful tips as well!

For help with choosing the right tools for your painting project, HELPFUL INTERIOR PAINTING TIPS & TRICKS is a good place to start.

Find great small laundry room storage ideas HERE!

We'll be sharing with you part two of our small laundry room ideas makeover soon!  In the second one, you'll see this first idea transform in to a completely different look!

                                  

 

 

 

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